The Special Sauce:

HOUSING

• SAE 1045 Solid Steel Forged Housing: This is unequivocally the best carbon alloy steel for this application.
• CNC Machined Housing: Make our parts and bearings dimensionally perfect, eliminating any die wear issues.

BALL STUDS

• SAE 4140 hot forged Chromoly Ball Studs: For strongest possible metallurgy.
• Induction Heat Treated Ball Studs: Provides a very precise heat treatment to the exact depth and location we want it.
• Rolled Threads:Are made by pressing the shape of the threads into the ball stud instead of cutting. This strengthens the threads instead of weakening them and allows for easy movement of hardware. This ain't no Ikea furniture!
• Step Threads: Allows for very easy movement of hardware on install and superior holding when torqued. (Installer Choice).

BOOTS

• CR Rubber Boots: The most durable material for undercar applications. Resistant to deterioration from road level ozone, oil/gas/engine fluids and extreme heat or cold
• Accordion Boot: ideal for high-articulation components, more flexibility means longer life.

FINISH

• E-Coating: Extremely durable electrochemical finishing process

HARDWARE

• Grade 8 - Class 10.9 Hardware: Superior tensile strength.
• Castle Nut: Industry standard where high vibration loads occur.

LUBRICATION

• Pre-threaded Zerk Housing: If you have ever installed a MOOG Ball Joint without a pre-threaded zerk fitting you will understand what a simple but great feature this is. Another installer fav.
• Greaseable: Because it should be.
• Pre-Greased: Just in case you forget, we have you covered.
• Gull Winged Grease Grooves: Allows for improved lubrication disbursement around the ball stud.
• Zerk Fittings: Included for every application.

SPECIAL FEATURES

• RH Drag Link End - Flopper Stoppers Built In: Unlike the poly hockey pucks that most brands use, our heavy duty "Flopper Stoppers" are built into the drag link end bearings, giving you an industry leading 27 degrees of stud swing left and right and only 2 degrees of stud swing forward and aft, keeping your drag link from rotating and flopping. The competitor hockey puck style systems also call for the removal of the tie rod end boot, which is there to keep the dirt out and the grease in.
• Minimum Engagement Mark on Drag Link End Threads: If this mark in the thread of the drag link is showing it means you are beyond the safe engagement of threads into the adjusting sleeve. You may be lifted too high and need to switch to a flip kit or you may need to equal out the adjusting sleeve between the two ends.